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Mountaineering
Climbing

Thomas Huber

Half of probably the most famous climbing siblings of all time and an icon in the world of alpinism. Despite decades of rock and mountain experience, Thomas still radiates childlike curiosity. When he’s not climbing, he talks about climbing or puts on wild rock ’n’ roll shows with his sons. He can’t stand social media, and the only things he loves more than LYO are strong coffee and good beer.

Selected Achievements

Har Har Mahadev

(6b A3+, M6, 80°) FA of the NW face of Cerro Kishtwar (6155m) / Kashmir Himalaya

2017

Bavarian Direct

(5.13c/8a+, 700m) team free ascent / Mount Asgard, Baffin Island

2012

Eternal Flame

(5.13a/7c+, 650m) first free ascent / Nameless Tower, Pakistan

2009

Eiszeit

(5.11/6c A4, 800m) first ascent / Holtanna (2650m), Queen Maud Land, Antarctica

2008

Zodiac

(5.13d/8b, 800m) first free ascent / El Capitan, Yosemite

2003

The Ogre

First ascent of Ogre III (6800m), second ascent of The Ogre (7285m) / Karakoram

2001

Shiva's Line

(5.10+/6c A4, 1500m) a Piolet d’Or-winning ascent / Shivling (6543m), Garhwal Himalaya

2000

El Niño

(5.13c/8a+, 800m) first free ascent / El Capitan, Yosemite

1998

End of Silence

(8b+, 350m) first free ascent / Feuerhörnd, Berchtesgaden Alps

1994

Scaramouche

(8a, 300m) first ascent of the multipitch trad route / Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps

1989

How would you describe your relationship with nature?

I approach nature with the utmost respect. It is a gift full of beauty, our playground, and through our skills we are able to connect with this amazing energy, to be one with nature. That’s art!

If Mother Nature could talk, what do you think she would tell us humans?

"Be respectful, because nature is the beating heart of all life!"

Which expedition experience has shaped you most as a person?

2001. The Ogre Expedition. That was when I realized that “impossibility” exists only in our thoughts. If we trust our skills and intuition, we are able to push the boundaries and make the impossible possible!

What basic qualities should your expedition partner have?

Humor, patience, and passion.

Which LYO product can’t you imagine going on an expedition without?

Beef Stroganoff… because I like it… but in the end, I like them all – the variety of all LYO meals ;-)

If you were not a mountain athlete, who would you be?

An artist, a musician.

Why alpinism then?

Because the mountains are my playground to explore, and that’s where I can live out my childish curiosity the best…