Roger Schäli

Paragliding

Alpinism

Roger Schäli

A true mountaineering all-rounder, widely known for his remarkable achievements. While he explores the world for new exciting projects, his heart beats faster especially at the thought of his home and the traditional Swiss cheese fondue. Passionate about adventures and allergic to self-centeredness.

Selected Achievements

Meru Peak (6660 m)

Meru Peak East Face, first ascent / Himalaya

2023

6 Big Northfaces

in 18 days / Alps

2021

Odyssee

(8a, 900m), first ascent / Eiger, Grindelwald

2015

Golden Gate and Freerider

Redpoint ascents / El Capitan, Yosemite

2014

Arwa Spire (6193 m)

Fior di Vite (90° M5 7a, 900m), first ascent and first free ascent / Himalaya

2012

Eventyr

(7a+, 1325m), first ascent / Greenland

2010

Titanic

(90˚ 6a A2, 950m), up & down in 30 hours / Torre Egger, Patagonia

2005

Donnafugata

(8a, 750m), first ascent / Torre Trieste, Italy

2004

Cerro Torre

3 ascents of Cerro Torre, including one with a paraglider / Patagonia

Eiger North Face

56 ascents on the Eiger North Face / Grindelwald

How would you describe your relationship with nature?

I grew up in a small mountain village. Nature is my home and that's where I feel best.

If Mother Nature could talk, what do you think she would tell us humans?

Oh dear, you humans are so full of possibilities that you can no longer see what really matters. Conscious decision and renunciation. Less is more.

Which expedition experience has shaped you most as a person?

I traveled to Arwa Spire three times, and on our second expedition we lost our friend and cameraman Daniel Ahnen in a crevasse. I have rarely felt so small and helpless. Respect for the mountains and realizing how fragile we, mountaineers can be was an important lesson.

What basic qualities should your expedition partner have?

He doesn't have to be the best climber, but he must have the fire and motivation to really want to reach the goal or the summit. He needs to have a sense of humor, patience, and be mature enough to deal with other climbers and the difficulties that the expedition always brings with caution and respect (no place for micro narcissists).

Which LYO product can’t you imagine going on an expedition without?

The Chicken Tikka Masala. It tastes simply delicious, and when you are resting in a bivouac after a long, tiring day on a mountain, it is really important. A warm meal that tastes good and gives you pleasure may prove to be the deciding factor.

If you were not a mountain athlete, who would you be?

A mountain guide... which I am.

Why alpinism then?

It is a complex and multifaceted way to be out and about in the world's most beautiful mountains and places and to express yourself and your creativity. And the mountains are real. When you're up and exposed on a mountain, all masks come off, and everyone has to be authentic.